
When, a little over a year ago, I wrote my last blog post on the subject of the northern kingdoms of late Roman and early Saxon times, I called it Tales from the North I. This was of course because I had a second post lined up which was also on a northerly theme: while on that holiday in Northumberland I had read George MacDonald Fraser’s splendid if inevitably somewhat dated account of the border reivers, the Steel Bonnets, and it had inspired me to write briefly on the subject myself, little though I expected the quality of my own description to match that of his.
Sadly though the best laid plans and all that…no sooner had I returned down south to the rather less epic lands of Surrey than the banalities of real life intervened. Due to conflicting pressures on my time the Grand Logothete found himself effectively on holiday, and the longer the time that passed since that last blog, the less appropriate it felt to open a blog post with some spiel harking back to a holiday now fading into memory. In recent weeks however the north has reasserted itself in my attentions and it seems fitting at last to issue that sequel, the Part II of tales of things northerly. Only it is not now a border reivers post, I think that has gone slightly cold on me now. The actual Part II is something more intimate, connected as it is with my home town, Liverpool.
Before this brief visit, I hadn’t visited my home town since one long weekend there just before Christmas 2007, and before that not since my father died and my mother moved down south in 1989-90. With no close family left up there, and aware of only those changes that had been significant enough to appear on the national news, I had little idea what to expect; but in any case every trip up there has ultimately left me feeling sadder and less a part of the city that I once loved.
Such sentiments need to be tempered with a measured dose of reality. The part of Liverpool in which I grew up in the late 1960’s and 1970’s, that spread of streets around the back gate of Walton Hospital, was a shabby little slum even then. We’re talking outside toilets – those who were a bit posh had electric lights and toilet rolls in their outside toilets instead of doing the business in the dark with bits of newspaper like the rest of us – infestations of cockroaches and/or bedbugs, back alleys (‘entries’ we called them) piled with rubbish and dogshit and stinking to high heaven in summer, regular utility disconnections for those who hadn’t the means to pay the bill – one of my more vivid memories is of my father cooking a full Sunday roast on our coal fire. It was not an idyll, and few tears were shed when the whole lot was bulldozed. And yet, what came after was in some ways even worse. Our neighbourhood was a shithole but it had a cohesiveness; it made sense to us even when we were at our lowest. Now the area is still a shithole, but it lacks that cohesion, different bits seem to have been developed separately and allowed to take their own course as they went to seed. And the effect has not been improved by the installation of branches of the large supermarkets; the big Sainsburys on Rice Lane in Walton is no doubt of great convenience to the neighbours (and in fact was of great convenience to us while we were staying closeby), but despite (or because of?) the bright lights, the clean lines and the garish orange sign, it is no less unsightly, and feels less appropriate, than the buildings that stood there before it.



The experience made me turn, with a somewhat jaundiced eye, to modern urban development and changing cityscapes generally. Liverpool has seen a lot of change in recent years and it’s hard to argue that much of it has not been for the better. The hideous old 1960’s bus terminal at the Pier Head, in which we used to run as bus-mad children, taking down bus numbers and route details that I can still mostly remember now (12C to Cantril Farm, though I have never had the first idea where Cantril Farm is), that has now been replaced by a space that seeks to celebrate the picturesque riverside setting of the city, and to highlight the monumental grandeur of the three great buildings that line the Pier Head. Albert Dock close by is another bright open space now teeming with life, home to shops, galleries, museums and bars. When wandering around these places the grim old Liverpool that always featured in my parents’ stories seems a long way away.
And yet the city of my childhood felt like a living, working city, whereas now it sometimes feels like a theme park. The problem for me is that the public spaces are largely commercial ones. As you wander the Pier Head now there is a host of touristy attractions pulling at your purse strings, not least the inevitable Beatles Store with its overpriced Fab-related tat, right on the river front, as if the history of this place started with the release of Please Please Me. Probably the largest development of recent times is Liverpool One, which I am sure has brought endless wealth into the city, or at least to certain interests in some way connected with it, but visually it is the usual garish explosion of store front logos familiar from a hundred other places, Foot Locker, Build-a-Bear, J D Sports, and so on.
I have to admit that I have a bias here. I have always been of a seriously nostalgic bent, and few things give me more pleasure than to gaze at old black and white photos of Liverpool cityscapes in earlier times. Also, as someone who has always been left-wing and much more sympathetic to things free and public than corporate, my mistrust of private-sector developments is instinctive; if the directors of Liverpool FC were to decide to change the name of the stadium at Anfield to the Standard Chartered Stadium, I would almost certainly lose all of the lingering interest I still have in English football. It can also not be denied that the civic spirit expressed in the monumental developments of the past have not always been without their commercial side. For a spell in 1987 I worked in the Port of Liverpool Building at the Pier Head and used to admire the great spiral staircase that climbed round the inside of the walls, with the stained glass windows decorated with the coats of arms of the various British colonies. Amidst the grandeur of the place, the lack of obvious corporate logos tended to blind me to the fact that these colonies were for the most part acquired and maintained for commercial reasons, and it was the money made for the city by this commerce that made such grand architecture possible.
Perhaps my beef with latter day developments in British cities has been the vulgarity of the corporate interventions, the fact that everything has to have a logo lest the observers forget for a moment who is responsible for the space and whose products, therefore, one should be buying. It always seemed to me that earlier British architects, in Liverpool and elsewhere handled their public spaces much better than the corporation-driven designers of the twenty first century, with their pressures to indicate the presence of their sponsor with the subtlety of a sledgehammer. The formal gardens of Stanley Park and Sefton Park, the neo-classical glories of William Brown Street, the galleries and the world-class museum…it was about civic pride, certainly, a civic pride that was not only based in sometimes brutal commerce but also often expressed for hubristic reasons of maintaining a superiority over potential rivals in the other major British cities; but it was more than that, it was also about edification and education; it embodied a paternalistic view that even the lowliest of the workers could be raised from their animal state if surrounded by things that made them wonder and think, as opposed to just things to make them spend, risible as such condescension might seem to us now. The late Victorian period in particular was an age of philanthropy and social reform, of Morris and Ruskin (‘When we build, let us think that we build for ever’) and the Fabians, a time when public works were seen as a way of expressing progressive values in a way probably never seen since. It’s true that such noble aspirations in public architecture were not always sustained even before corporate sponsorship began to cast its shadow; in particular the period in the decades after World War II is associated with ill-judged decisions that gave us such monstrosities as the high rise block, the now-disappeared brutal square bus station at the Pier Head, and, almost, a bypass that would have disastrously cut through the green quiet of Christchurch Meadow in Oxford. But even these failures were normally (arguably) based on lapses of judgement, the belief that such things were genuinely desirable and would make life better for those affected, as opposed to having no goal but to promote the interests of a corporate sponsor, whether or not those interests were shared by those who lived close by.
This has been much less a historical piece than a poorly-focused rant, and I hope those who have read the blog in the past will recognise that polemics is an area that normally I am very careful to stay well away from. I can only promise that normal standards will be resumed in the next issue. But the trigger, nostalgic disappointment, is one that is highly personal to me and to an extent I think encapsulates my intimate and passionate relationship with history as a whole. For the whole of my life a highly nostalgic fixation with my own life story has marched in step with a wider fascination with the human story generally. When I look at the cityscapes of my childhood I am seeing history, my own and others’, not least of my own parents and ancestors, and it can’t but hurt to go back and see them gone, and still worse when the garish overlit sign of a corporate supermarket seems to mock me from the very site upon which stood the Victorian redbrick school that provided a decent primary education to my parents’ generation and my own, now gone for ever. We would do well, I think, to take a more considered view of how we wish the landscapes of our cities to develop, to try to create a pleasant, edifying and coherent environment for our fellow citizens rather than a dystopia of corporate stores and rushed housing developments whose photographs will assuredly never grace the pages of any latter day picture book about their city, to make its readers sigh with regret at what has passed.


























